The ethereal shimmer of the quartz-encrusted sand as you step off the boat in the Isles of Scilly is the stuff of fairytales. Rather than mermaids, though, the oiled bodies on rocks are those of fat, grey seals, or perhaps even a walrus. Wally, all the way from the Arctic Circle, was arguably the worst-behaved guest on Scilly last summer, and amused himself by merrily swamping islanders’ boats during his stay.
The islands are popular with the royals, but with rustic ecocamps, wild campsites and homely B&Bs, you don’t need a Royal Mint to enjoy Scilly. (That being said, you can stay in a castle.)
Built during the 16th century in the shape of an eight-point star, The Star Castle is wonderfully historic, overlooking the old Garrison Walls. If you can tear yourself away from the panoramic sea views from the ramparts, there’s an indoor heated pool, and on-site golf and tennis to enjoy. The well-stocked bar even serves wine from the hotel’s own vineyard, on St. Mary’s itself, a little further inland.
Read our full review of Star Castle.
Price: Doubles from £219 with breakfast and dinner
A little townhouse with bright rooms, and a drool-worthy menu, St Mary’s Hall enjoys an enviable location in the strip of town between Porthcressa and Town Beaches. Haute-cuisine is the name of the game, and afternoon tea and apéritifs can be enjoyed in the Mediterranean garden. The hotel also owns a beachside grill in a converted boatshed a stone’s throw away.
Price: Doubles from £204, B&B
Right on the main quay, Tregarthen’s takes people-watching to a new level, as passengers embark and disembark from the Scillonian and fishermen unload the catch of the day. Recently refurbished, the 35 rooms run with a nautical theme, and there are six self-catered holiday cottages on-site too. It’s the prime location for hopping on boats for day trips to the other islands.
Price: Doubles from £190, B&B
Quiet little Bryher, the smallest inhabited island on Scilly, is an artist’s haven, with ramshackle studios lining the beach behind the archipelago’s most luxurious accommodation, the Hell Bay Hotel. Even in the height of summer, the Scillies feel tranquil and remote, but nowhere more so than here, nestled amongst craggy granite cairns and hidden bays. Enjoying a sundowner overlooking the lagoon is the perfect combination of comfort and isolation.
Price: Doubles from £370, B&B
There’s often a tendency to rank the five inhabited islands of Scilly by preference, and whilst each is special for different reasons, the beaches on St. Martin’s take some beating. The island is just two miles in length, but the carpet of glittering white sand that frames the hotel’s front garden gives the impression that the beach goes on forever. Equipped with an exceptional spa, staying here takes relaxation to a new level. Dogs are welcome.
Read our full review of the Karma Hotel.
Price: Doubles from £220, B&B
