Like Jekyll and Hyde, central Edinburgh has two sides. The Georgian New Town is a realm of leafy boulevards, towering townhouses and charming mews streets, while the medieval Old Town hides myriad closes and snickelways where dark deeds were conducted at nightfall. Edinburgh Castle looms above the city on a craggy outcrop and at the other end of the Royal Mile, stately Holyrood Palace sits in the shadow of an extinct volcano.
There’s plenty to explore in the suburbs too. Stockbridge has a village vibe with its buzzing brunch spots and cosy wine bars and once-industrial Leith sees warehouses turned fine-dining restaurants and chi chi coffee shops. But once you’ve had your fill of history, culture and the whine of bagpipes drifting up the Royal Mile, where do you lay your head?
Across the city, hotels play to Edinburgh’s dramatic history. Boutique hotels offer romantic stays amid the spires of the Old Town, historic townhouses turned regal rooms embrace the city’s well-to-do side, and brand new architectural marvels house luxurious modern accommodation. We’ve rounded up the best places to stay across the Scottish capital.
Arguably Edinburgh’s most famous hotel opened as the Great North British Railway Hotel in 1902. Its Baronial-style facade is still one of the first things you’ll see as you step out of Waverly Station and the clocktower is an essential part of the Edinburgh skyline. Uniformed porters man the main door on Princes Street and on special occasions, you might catch a kilted piper welcoming guests. The main restaurant serves a Michelin-quality tasting menu and each resplendent lounge is stocked with a vast collection of single malt whiskies from across Scotland. Classic double rooms are no doubt deluxe and vast suites have accommodated royalty, diplomats and celebrities over the past 120 years.
Address: 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh EH2 2EQ
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‘Maximalism’ is the word at this gloriously OTT adult-only hotel in Edinburgh’s historic Old Town. Seductive reds, dim lighting and thick curtains encasing four-poster beds create the atmosphere of a bodice-ripping romance novel. Super luxurious upgrades like the ‘Treat me like I’m famous’ packages and riders would put any self-respecting diva to shame but even a standard stay includes a call button for milk and cookies. The mixology-first cocktail bar is a real den of iniquity – the perfect spot for a nightcap before slinking off to the boudoir.
Address: 233 Cowgate, Edinburgh EH1 1JQ
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Georgian elegance meets modern indulgence at this sumptuous property in St Andrews Square. From the folk that brought you the famous Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire, the grand features of this former bank have been sympathetically preserved, creating lounges and bars where you’re forced to look up and admire the wainscotting and gilded ceilings. In the members-only rooftop bar, you’ll find a whisky collection that peaks into the £100s and The Spence restaurant serves one of the most lavish afternoon teas in the city.
Address: 39 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2AD
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Housed in a Georgian townhouse in the West End, the Bonham is a short walk from the picture-perfect Dean Village. In keeping with its proximity to the Galleries of Modern Art, the collection of artworks here could fill a small museum. A J&L Lobmeyr chandelier crafted in 1872 greets you on arrival and the pride of Richard H Driehaus’ collection is the Tiffany floor lamp with an intricate nasturtium shade. Boutique rooms are a delightfully chintzy medley of velvet and tufted leather. The restaurant is decked out like a 19th-century saloon and, with a Scottish produce-led menu of perfectly plated dishes, is a dining destination in its own right. Those who enjoy a lie-in can indulge in the boozy snoozy lunch and the afternoon cheese is a whimsical take on an afternoon tea (sweet afternoon teas are also available).
Address: 35 Drumsheugh Gardens Edinburgh EH3 7RN
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Accommodation ranges from studios to three-bedroom boltholes at these serviced apartments on St Andrews Square. Full, sleekly modern kitchens mean self-catering options for flexibility at mealtimes and there’s a selection of familiar chain restaurants, independent pizza places, cafés and bars right on the doorstep. Plus, you get the bonus of hotel-style facilities – daily breakfast, housekeeping, a 24-hour concierge and an on-site gym. It’s for families with kids who might want their own rooms and parents who want to stay up in the living room after the little ones have gone to bed.
Address: 42 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2AD
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Footsteps from Edinburgh Castle, the Witchery restaurant and hotel resides in a building dating back to 1595. A bewitching night garden twinkling with fairy lights greets you on arrival and, for dinner, it’s a descent down ancient stone steps to a dining room of medieval splendour illuminated by candelabra. Each of the decadent eight bedrooms continues the medieval theme with rich oak panelling, four-poster beds with thick curtains and walls draped with tapestries.
